Apex Chassis Drag Link 18-23 Jeep Wrangler JL Gladiator JT

Apex Chassis Drag Link 18-23 Jeep Wrangler JL Gladiator JTThis is a complete replacement drag link assembly kit for your Wrangler JL or Gladiator JT. It includes the drag link (Polished Aluminum) which is also the adjusting sleeve, and left & right forged steel drag link ends, plus 2 Ninja Lock Washers. This steering kit fits stock Dana 44 and Dana 30 axles in the standard, undermount location (not a flip kit). If your Jeep has been upgraded to a Dana 60 axle, Apex Chassis has modifications that can work

This is a complete replacement drag link assembly kit for your Wrangler JL or Gladiator JT. It includes the drag link (Polished Aluminum) which is also the adjusting sleeve, and left & right forged steel drag link ends, plus 2 Ninja Lock Washers. This steering kit fits stock Dana 44 and Dana 30 axles in the standard, undermount location (not a flip kit). If your Jeep has been upgraded to a Dana 60 axle, Apex Chassis has modifications that can work with that as well, just contact us to order.

• Taper sleeves require the knuckle drag link mount to be drilled through with a straight 7/8" drill bit.
• Wheels and Spacers: If you run AEV or stock Rubicon wheels, you'll need a 1.5" spacer. This kits works with a 17" wheel with a 4.75" backspacing or less. We recommend the steering stabilizer be fitted in the stock location, or a relocation kit may be required.

• SAE 1045 Solid Steel Forged Housing: This is unequivocally the best carbon alloy steel for this application.
• CNC Machined Housing: Make Apex Chassis parts and bearings dimensionally perfect, eliminating any die wear issues.

• SAE 4140 hot forged Chromoly Ball Studs: For strongest possible metallurgy.
• Induction Heat Treated Ball Studs: Provides a very precise heat treatment to the exact depth and location we want it.
• Rolled Threads: Are made by pressing the shape of the threads into the ball stud instead of cutting. This strengthens the threads instead of weakening them and allows for easy movement of hardware. This ain't no Ikea furniture!
• Step Threads : Allows for very easy movement of hardware on install and superior holding when torqued. (Installer Choice).

• Rugged Metal to Metal Bearing.

• CR Rubber Boots: The most durable material for undercar applications. Resistant to deterioration from road level ozone, oil/gas/engine fluids and extreme heat or cold
• Accordion Boot: ideal for high-articulation components, more flexibility means longer life.

• Rod Ends - Phosphate Finish: Extremely durable. Double coated. Rugged look. Adjusting Sleeves - E-Coat Finish:Durable e-coat treatment

• Grade 8 - Class 10.9 Hardware: Superior tensile strength.
• Castle Nut: Industry standard where high vibration loads occur.

• 2" 7075-T6 Aluminum Rod: The best aluminum available for this application. Extremely durable but has some flex and memory if you really bash it into something.

• Pre-threaded Zerk Housing: If you have ever installed a MOOG Ball Joint without a pre-threaded zerk fitting you will understand what a simple but great feature this is. Another installer fav.
• Greaseable: Because it should be.
• Pre-Greased: Just in case you forget, we have you covered.
• Gull Winged Grease Grooves : Allows for improved lubrication disbursement around the ball stud.
• Zerk Fittings : Included for every application.

• Tie Rod Ends & RH Drag Link End - Flopper Stoppers Built In: Unlike the poly hockey pucks that most brands use, our heavy duty "Flopper Stoppers" are built into the tie rod end and drag link end bearings, giving you an industry leading 27 degrees of stud swing left and right and only 2 degrees of stud swing forward and aft, keeping your tie rod and drag link from rotating and flopping. The competitor hockey puck style systems also call for the removal of the tie rod end boot, which is there to keep the dirt out and the grease in.
• Ninja Washers:An APEX exclusive is the Ninja Washer which is a unique method of securing the lock nut to the tube, erasing the need for lightly built adjusting tubes with ugly pinch clamps. And who doesn't want a ninja on their front end!
• Minimum Engagement Mark on Drag Link End Threads:If this mark in the thread of the drag link is showing it means you are beyond the safe engagement of threads into the adjusting sleeve. You may be lifted too high and need to switch to a flip kit or you may need to equal out the adjusting sleeve between the two ends.